Kittens and puppies, oh my! Part IV

When we last discussed spaying and neutering feral cats, I wrote about TNR (trap-neuter-return), the process of trapping feral cats, having them fixed and ear-tipped, then releasing back to the spot where they were trapped. I wrote that “fixed” ferals are easy to spot–they have a portion of one ear missing, hence the term ‘ear tip’.

If you notice cats in an area that you frequent (or even start feeding a stray cat that shows up on your front porch), the first thing to do is identify if the cat is feral, and if so, whether or not that cat is fixed. Feral cats are shy around people and won’t readily come up to you. They will likely hold back while you fill their dish or even just walk by. (If the cat is friendly, please call animal control or contact a rescue group. Domesticated social cats deserve to be indoor pets!) A feral without a tipped ear needs to be fixed and vaccinated. And that is where trapping comes in!

Photo by Alley Cat Allies

You can buy a trap or rent one from an organization like Feral Cat Assistance Program. Folks that plan to trap frequently find that buying a trap can be quite convenient. You can find them online or at stores such as Tractor Supply. Once you’ve gotten your trap and have a plan for the cat (see info at the end of this post for places that spay and neuter feral cats), you will want to get all the supplies you need for trapping–canned food, a couple towels, and some newspaper or puppy pads. The following guidelines are from Alley Cat Allies, the nation’s top organization for all things feral cat.

How to trap a feral cat:

  • Withhold food from cats. It’s recommended that you withhold food from cats for 24 hours before trapping, but continue to provide water. This means the cats will be hungry enough to go into the traps on trapping day. Talk to other caregivers and neighbors in the area so they withhold food as well.
  • Line the bottom of the trap. When preparing a trap, line the bottom interior with one or two pages of newspaper, folded lengthwise, so that the floor is more comfortable for kitty paws. On windy days, it might be necessary to tape the newspaper down.
  • Tag the trap. Always tag the traps with the location of where it has been set up. When you trap the cat, write a brief description of the cat on the tag. This will help you in returning the right cat to her right home.
  • Bait the traps. The smellier, the better! Place approximately one tablespoon of bait (tuna in oil, sardines, or other strong-smelling food) at the very back of the trap, so that the cat will step on the trigger plate while attempting to reach the food. Lightly drizzle some bait juice along the trap floor toward the entrance. You can even place a tiny bit of food (1/4 teaspoon) just inside the entrance of the trap to encourage the cat to walk in.
  • Placing traps. For the safety of the cats, always place traps on a flat and stable ground. If you’re using multiple traps, stagger them and face them in different directions. Try to place the traps in quiet and hidden areas, so cats are more comfortable going near them.
  • Monitor and keep track of traps. Traps should never be left unattended. Check the traps frequently, but from a distance so you don’t scare cats away. Choose a location to wait where you are far enough away to give the cats a sense of safety, but close enough so that you can see them. Keep a close eye in the event a trap malfunctions and you need to spring into action to prevent a cat from being injured.
  • A cat has been trapped. The trapped cat will likely be frightened and thrashing to get out. Immediately cover the entire trap with a large towel or sheet to calm the kitty down. Carefully move the covered, trapped cat away to a quiet and safe area that’s temperature-controlled to prevent her from scaring off any remaining un-trapped cats. Remember, it’s possible for a cat to die from hypothermia or heat stroke when confined in a trap outside. A good rule to follow is if it’s too hot or cold outside for you, then it’s too hot or cold for the cats.
  • Hard-to-trap cats. Some cats are particularly shy or just too savvy to take the bait. Fortunately, there are alternate ways of safely trapping a cat who’s too smart to go into a regular box trap. For instance, a drop trap will give you more control over when a cat is trapped because you trigger the trap yourself.
  • Count your traps. Always remember to count the number of traps when you finish trapping so you know that you didn’t leave any traps behind, especially ones with cats inside.
  • Take the cats to a veterinarian or a spay/neuter clinic. If your appointments aren’t the same day as the trapping, place the trapped and covered cats in an indoor holding area that is dry, temperature-controlled, and away from dangers such as toxic fumes, other animals, or people. It’s recommended that trapping coincide with the clinic’s ability to neuter right away or the very next morning, so the cats don’t remain in their traps for too long.
  • Transport cats safely. When transporting cats in a vehicle, make sure they remain inside the covered traps and that they are placed on a flat surface. If traps must be stacked inside the vehicle, be sure to secure the traps with bungee cords or other restraints so they don’t topple over. Place puppy pads or newspaper between the stacked traps in case there’s a bathroom accident.

The following places accept feral cats for spay/neuter/vaccine services and ear tips. They are low cost, around $10 or $20 a cat. They generally have a waiting list, so contact them before you plan to trap. Once you have a feral cat in a trap, you will likely never be able to trap them again, so you must make the first time count. NEVER TRAP WITHOUT A PROPER PLACE TO HOUSE THE CAT UNTIL SPAY DAY. NEVER TRAP A CAT WITHOUT SOLID PLANS FOR SPAY/NEUTER SERVICES.

Places in the Triad that take ferals for spay/neuter/vaccine services and ear tips:

Feral Cat Assistance Program

The Humane Society of the Piedmont

Sheets Pet Clinic

Kittens and puppies, oh my! Part III

Last week we talked about the astronomical number of kittens that can result from just one intact pair of cats. If you missed the earlier articles in our summer series, you can catch up here.

This week we will discuss TNR–trap, neuter, release. This is an international effort, and it means pretty much what it sounds like: we trap a cat, “fix” it, and release it back to the location where it was trapped. With an estimated 50 million feral cats in the United States, it’s clear we need all the help we can get when it comes to TNR.

So, how does all of this work? Well, first let’s talk about where feral cats typically congregate: feral colonies. Wikipedia succinctly defines a colony as

A group of feral cats that live together in one territory, often near food sources and shelter. … When a human decides to care for a feral cat colony, it is often called a managed colony.

Feral colonies are everywhere–office parks, warehouse districts, apartment complexes, suburban neighborhoods, city parks…everywhere. When you find a feral cat, the first thing to do is find out if the cat is already fixed. You can ask around, and hope that someone knows. Or, you can do this: look for a “tipped” ear. A tipped ear is the universal sign that a feral cat has been spayed or neutered. It is done while the cat is under anesthesia and being altered. It’s super easy to spot:

So, once you’ve determined that a feral cat is not fixed, you’ll need to plan to trap for TNR. That’s a lengthy article, however, so we’ll plan to discuss trapping in our next installment.

Kittens and puppies, oh my! Part II

This is article #2 in a new summer series. Please read last week’s article if you haven’t already!

As you know, it’s raining kittens and puppies right now. And while these baby animals are fuzzy and cute, their sheer numbers are almost unbelievable. Approximately 70,000 kittens and puppies are born EACH DAY in the United States alone (

Compare that with almost 10,000 humans born each day. No matter how you look at that number, there will never be enough homes for these animals. As a result, nearly 9 million cats and dogs die in our shelters each year.

These numbers are both staggering and heart breaking. But there is an easy fix: spay and neuter. The general rule is “fix at 4 months”, and many shelters and rescues have worked hard to make this ‘rule’ common knowledge (

Most shelters and local humane societies offer low-cost spay/neuter services. Additionally, low cost clinics perform these surgeries. It’s a safe procedure, and does not, as myths suggest, change your dog’s behavior or make them fat. What it will do is eliminate the chance for unwanted litters, reduce the risk of reproductive cancers, and eliminate bad habits like spraying.

But what about the nearly 70 million feral cats in this country? How do you get a “wild animal” to the vet for a spay/neuter surgery? And does it matter? It’s just a stray or shy cat that you are nice enough to feed on your back porch. Yet, feeding is not enough. You must get that cat fixed–that one cat can have 18 kittens a year. All of sudden, your desire to help a sweet homeless cat has put you in the position of feeding a herd! And intact cats (ones that haven’t been ‘fixed’) have a lower quality of life. They fight more, roam more, and are more susceptible to disease. Managed feral cats, on the other hand, have a longer, happier life due to that one simple surgery.

Next week, in part 3, we will discuss the international movement known as “T-N-R”: trap, neuter, & release. We will talk about how to properly trap a feral cat, how to tell if that cat is already ‘fixed’ (yes!–there is a way without even touching the cat!), how to take advantage of free and low-cost feral ‘spay days’, and how to care for the cat once it’s been altered and you’ve brought it back ‘home’.

Kittens and puppies, oh my! Part I

It’s kitten season. Every spring, just as flowers bloom, strawberries ripen, and air conditioners kick on, something else happens–the arrival of thousands of unplanned litters of kittens.

It starts way before that, of course. When last spring’s kittens were born. The ones not trapped, neutered (and spayed) and released, along with the ones intentionally allowed to breed, begin getting pregnant at four months old. Maybe you know one of these cats–the sweet tabby that eats from a bowl in your neighbor’s yard, the family member with the perpetually pregnant outside cat, the cats you see in parking lots EVERYWHERE.

They beg for meals, take up residence in abandoned structures, or get dumped at the shelter by the thousands.

And then there are the puppies. Bred throughout the year, by people looking to make extra money, and the “oops” litters that happen all around us. When those puppies don’t sell, or they grow from cute puppies into unmanageable large dogs, they too find themselves at the shelter.

So what do we do? How do we help all of these homeless animals? What can we do once they get into the shelter system?

Over the next few weeks, we will look at ways to prevent unwanted litters, how to help feral cats in our community, ways to enrich the lives of cats and dogs in our shelters, how to promote adoptions, and perhaps most important, how to remain hopeful when dealing with an issue as heartbreaking as pet homelessness.

I hope you’ll read along and join in the discussion at the bottom of each of our blog posts as we explore this timely topic!

Little Ripley was trapped at a large feral cat colony in Denton last January. He was very social, so was neutered and placed into a foster home and was eventually adopted.

Do cats need a visit every day?

We often get requests for cat visits every other day. We don’t do them, and the reasons why might surprise you:
·Socialization. There’s a myth that cats don’t need people; that they are independent and do fine when left alone for a day or two. We disagree. Most cats are incredibly social, and even ones that aren’t still enjoy the “company” that we offer.
·Safety. So many things can happen in a day, which is why we require at least one visit every calendar day. A cat might accidently get stuck somewhere, tip over their water bowl, the auto feeder might stop working, the cat could have a medical event… The list is incredibly long. Having a sitter come by daily can insure that all is going well.
·Security. Mail left in the box for two days, newspapers piling up in the driveway, no ‘signs of life’ in your home–these are things that a potential burglar looks for. Having your sitter come by daily means that mail and other deliveries are brought inside. Lights and blinds can be rotated. And because we never advertise with signage on our vehicles, no one will know that you are away and have hired a pet sitter.

Labor of Love: A story over a decade in the making

Sometime in 2006 or 2007, I got a call about a feral cat colony in need of caretakers (regular followers of our Facebook page know that we are huge advocates of feral cat care, and we do a lot of work in the community to help these cats have a better quality of life). The colony was near Guilford College, and had recently been moved about 1/4 mile from the original location. Incredibly, someone had tried to kill the colony cats by poisoning their water bowls. We never found out who did that, but moved the colony any way. Moving a colony is no easy feat. There are houses and feeding stations to move, not to mention the cats themselves. Fortunately, the colony was small–only about 6 cats–and they readily followed us to the new location. 

I agreed to feed a couple days a week. It was a fun little volunteer gig. I adored the cats, which included a family of four sisters. The sisters were tabby cats–two grey and two black/brown. One cat of each color combo was pretty outgoing. They ran right up to me when I arrived with their food and water on my feeding days. This is not unusual, of course. Many ferals become comfortable around their caretakers, and will even allow us to pet them a little. 

I have many memories of caring for that colony. Year after year, we fed them. We put straw in their houses to keep warm in winter. We brought lots and lots of bowls, until one caretaker decided to tether the bowls with a cord (the bowls always went missing before that, either to the wind, or by enterprising raccoons that carried them off). One winter, I got my little KIA stuck in the mud, and had to wait a couple hours before being pulled out. I became friends with the other caretakers, and together we loved those cats just like we loved our domestic house cats. 

Over the years, the colony population changed. A new cat might show up, hang around for a month or so, then move on. At some point, the colony only contained the four tabby sisters. Like all managed colonies, our cats were spayed and neutered, so the only additional cats were the ones traveling between colonies or otherwise on the move (There are colonies everywhere, I mean everywhere. Cats easily travel through the sewer system and literally pop up all over the place). 

Then it began. We started seeing only three of the tabbys at feeding time. It’s heartbreaking, but it’s reality. The cats get old and pass away. Sometimes it’s worse–they get hit by a car. At some point in the last couple years, we only saw two tabbys at feeding time. And finally, just one. 

It was winter, maybe early spring. No matter what time we went, only one tabby met us at the feeding station. She was one of the more outgoing ones, a sweet black and brown senior girl. She always ran up, and walked right around our legs, nearly tripping us as we walked to her dish. She loved to be petted. It was always so good to see her. 

But it was hard to see her out there alone. Her sisters were gone, and she was a very social cat. She appeared to be a good candidate for adoption. But bringing a feral cat home is a major operation–they have never been inside a house, and likely would be shy with anyone but the colony caretakers. We asked around, but for whatever reason, no one could take her. So we did. We owed it to her–she deserved to be with other cats and out of the elements. 

On a Sunday night about a month ago, we pulled up to the colony. This time, we came with a crate instead of dinner. Incredibly, she seemed to be ready to go. I scooped her up, put her in the crate, and then we headed to a 24-hour vet for a complete check up and vaccines. She got a clean bill of health, and we headed home. We had set up our back porch for her: new ceiling fan, new screen, even a neat shade that made the porch cooler for her. Most important, we had a brand new litter box set up, filled with ‘Cat Attract’ litter. Our smart little feral cat learned to use the litter box that first night! 

And so she’s home now. And inside, too. Turns out she was done with living outside, even if the new version had a fan, a view, and a sad little tomato plant that has yet to produce anything. She’s still getting used to our household. Dogs, cats, and all the daily sounds that a house contains–dishwasher, laundry, humans talking, the TV–it is all very new and overwhelming at times. But she’s doing really well, and will come around completely in her own time and on her own terms; after all, she’s a feral cat and that’s how they roll. A labor of love that started over a decade ago has culminated in a happy home for us and our longtime friend, who by the way, now has a name. It’s ‘Stripey’. 

Pet Safety on July 4th


It’s almost the 4th! Cookouts, swimming, fireflies, and fireworks. Below are some tips to make Independence Day less stressful for your animals. 

•Many pets go missing on the 4th. Make sure that your pets are secured in your home, away from doors they can easily access. If you must leave them outside, make sure your gate is closed and locked, and that there are no holes or other ways for your dog to escape. 

•As you likely know, fireworks can be extremely frightening to pets. Create a quiet place in your home, away from the festivities. Turn on the TV or radio; find a relaxing station–classical music is ideal–or a show that is not super loud (think “Andy Griffith”). Make sure the volume is not too high. Animals hear many times better than we do, and a station that’s too loud will only add to the scary stuff happening outside. 

•Make sure your quiet room has a comfy hiding spot–an open crate covered in blankets, or a favorite spot way back in your closet. 

•Make sure the quiet room is kept at a comfortable temperature, and provide plenty of water to drink. 

•If your dog has a favorite busy toy, like a peanut butter Kong, offer that too. 

•For extra-stressed pets, your vet can advise you on using medication, such as trazodone, to keep your pet calm and comfortable. Non-medicinal options include ‘Composure Chews’ and ‘Comfort Zone with Adaptil’.

With a bit of preparation, your pet can be kept safe and comfortable while you celebrate this 4th of July! 


It’s getting hot (and humid) in here…



Summer has arrived, and not just because Memorial Day is upon us . It’s here because we have had temperatures in the 80s every day, and the humidity isn’t much better. 

This is also the time when we see clients going on vacation and leaving the A/C off, or worse, leaving their windows open. Now, we get it–you aren’t home, so why pay for air conditioning when no one is there. Well, someone is home–your PETS! 

While animals that live outside may adapt to hot temperatures, especially if they have proper shade, ice water, and a cooling mat, inside pets, especially young and old pets, don’t adapt so well. 

One thing that seems to get little notice is humidity. Humidity–amount of moisture in the atmosphere–can effect a pet’s ability to cool down. As your pet pants, moisture leaves the lungs and takes the heat away, thus cooling them down. But if the air is too humid, panting becomes inefficient. If you leave your windows open, it’s imperative that you check the humidity first. Ideally, your house should be at 60% or below. My house is generally at about 45%–a number that seems perfect for my pets and me! If you don’t have a way to keep track of indoor (and outdoor!) humidity, an affordable device like the ‘La Crosse 308-1425B-INT Wireless Color Weather Station’ is a great option. 

This can be a rough time of year for pets, but with some planning, the dog days of summer can be as enjoyable for our critters as they are for us! 

Relationships Mean Everything

When I arrived at my favorite ‘mom and pop’ coffee shop this week, my coffee was poured before I had time to order. They know me there–they even know my routine. When I came early one morning, I was greeted with surprise. “You never come at this hour”, declared the staff. 

I had similar experiences as I went to the small pet supply store down the street from me, when I made a deposit at my local credit union, and even when I stopped for a quesadilla at my favorite restaurant. I know these businesses, and more importantly, they know ME. They can tell when I am having a rough day (and not just because my hair is messy and there is dried cat food on my shirt), and they know what I like, what my interests are, and what I do for a living. 
All of that got me thinking about what we do at Lucy’s Friends. We love our clients, both human and animal. We KNOW them. We can tell when one of the animals in our care isn’t feeling great, and not just because we see medication near their food dish. We know because we know their personalities, their habits, and their expressions. We know our human clients, too. We can tell when you ran out the door in a hurry and forgot to do something you normally do–like take out the garbage or even lock the door. We quietly take the trash out and maybe leave an extra nice note when we go. We share in our clients’ joys (new baby, new pet, graduation, marriage…) and of course, their heartbreak. We have sat with clients at the vet when they put a beloved pet down, we have gone to funerals, we have grieved with our clients when a marriage ended, someone had to move away, or sad medical news was received. We have watched animals in our care grow from rambunctious puppies and daredevil kittens into slow moving, special needs seniors. 
This is what we do. We love it and think it’s the only way to do our job. So, while we can never compete with the big guys like Wag or Rover when it comes to large staffing and high tech apps, we think the way we do business is the best way. Relationships are the foundation of Lucy’s Friends Pet Sitting, LLC. Relationships take time to cultivate; they don’t move at the speed of technology and are difficult if a new sitter is booked each time you need one. It’s a slow way to do things, but we think it’s what makes us special. 

My pet won’t eat!

Is your cat or dog a fussy eater? Try these tips:

•Baby food. A spoon of baby food–chicken is the most common type we suggest–can really inspire your pet when they turn up their nose at the dry stuff. Just mix it in with their regular food.

•Canned food. Most cats and dogs will happily eat with a spoon of canned food added to their regular dry kibble.

•Broth. Fat free, low sodium chicken or beef broth is an easy go-to for picky eaters. Warm it for about 7 seconds in the microwave, then mix into the kibble for a soupy, yummy meal.

•Stinky stuff. This is especially handy for older cats, who tend to be harder to feed. The diminished ability to smell their food, combined with health issues and medications, can make working up an appetite difficult. Using something like tuna, or a canned food that is especially “stinky”, can really get an older cat interested in their meal.

•Shredded chicken.  Mixing some chicken with your pet’s food can really do the trick.  

•Appetite stimulants. When all else fails, talk to your vet about an appetite stimulant,  such as Mirtazapine. Your vet can discuss the advantages,  and risks, of these types of meds.